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In the corner of a wine bar come

"We Crown Hall," he said as we walked in the direction of Casa Boker, once the center of the world for my father, a devotee of the machines and tools. "You do not have much luck, my queen, I thought. "I spent my time in preschool."

"We're going to Isabel," he said. "Where?" Said the queen, and then realized that its historic center mob scene was rather limited. The inhabitants of the first table knowing we lost a lot of urban renewal that area, but there are still pockets of which will take a while to be dispossessed, and among them are the bars. My good friend Enrique Calderón, God knows what will be parked slum, was my guide in this world of experiences, stories, journalism alive, eager to find among the nebula to the Duchess of Duke Job, with a little kid boots mistreated by the disappointments and a revolution that did not taste good.

recently died journalist, poet and novelist John Ross, dean of the correspondents in Mexico. Two situations can approach him. One of them was his deep connection to Michoacán, where he ended his days, the other being a resident of Isabel hotel in the Rue de Isabel La Católica, in the center of the capital.

The Isabel, the old house of Lucas Ala, is a building that holds many stories. Transformer into a hotel, is one of those magical places commonly frequented by foreigners who follow the recommendations of other visitors, preferably through the network. Has been the scene of several shootings, including, as I recall, in a video of Arjona.

There is a compelling force in the unexpected and Isabel. Some years ago I lived some time in it. Few people however repairs on your bar-cafeteria, a place infamous happily spend a little fame outside diaphanous enjoyed by the hotel.

Unlike many other bars that have become popular, the bar retains its status Isabel antrum, the redoubt, personal entrance to an underworld only be shared with other outcasts evening.

is no place for children, or to couple office, foreigners, many hotel guests enter this joint with the stealth of a Protestant indicated visiting Catholic churches, to fit his usual Corona with a slice of lemon inserted into the bottle. Fit on a table, aware that it is a world apart, marginal, which could add some time, but now, for now, can not. Drink his chela with parsimony trying to ingratiate himself with the rhythms of the trio, the recorder, the drunk on duty. Drink quietly, in awe: I am a bit beyond the distance, with my hearty white Havana in hand, with lots of ice, as he liked the good Manuelez.

"That's why I like coming to the canteen," he once told a colleague. "Back at home my mom scolds me for littering the bathroom. And here I can even make figures on the ice. " The canteen is fraternity, no time, no rush, no complaints. "We are sucking quiet" is a reality fulminant time chat, history, the gloating, the memory. "Only fools get drunk" summed up the first century BC philosopher, and the bar is checking it.

tuning bartender is the emancipation of the working hours, family pressures, the eternal squares. There is time to drink, to dream, to love, to write poems that end up in the trash.
Isabel
The bar has experienced earthquakes. I remember when, for example, some years ago, there was a crisis between the customers (in effect), when the bartender decided to migrate to a nearby, Champion, for some very celebrated by the generous drinks to be served any time. The resignation was seen as treason, some customers migrated to the Champion, not without reason outside of sarcasm and mockery by the faithful followers of Elizabeth for a long time.

When Isabel arrives, he will select. There is a force that takes you, you make, you choose, just as to live on site and must bring in the blood a sign of doom that makes you enjoy the rarefied atmosphere. When Ross left, he was a bit of that magic that still spans the walls of the historic center that many have lived for years with good and bad, so putrid and sublime in our center, with Sor Juana and teporochos.

Today I write from this my bar, Isabel. Those who have been with me remember, and know how to remember. Squalid thin, friendly, generous, loyal, very nearly submitting Kaliman emulating. Someday the historical center will be the first world, then the old specimens of the capital's bars will surely be gone.

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A new wave of English wine arrives in Mexico for the purpose of connecting with importers and distributors and find ways of marketing it one of the most attractive to producers around the world . In a week that we have spent almost the cup in his hand to many visits to winemakers and brand presentations and regions, could not miss a tour of the V Sample Wines From Spain, organized by that country's embassy in Mexico through its economic and trade office.

Unlike English Wine Day, held in the embassy, \u200b\u200bthis meeting has been to space the Camino Real hotel aims at the gateway to new business proposals to be incorporated into the already extensive list of English labels present in the Mexican market. The gear should not be anything wrong, much less the results, and that except two or three voices of discouragement, in general the comments from exhibitors is that of an optimistic expectation by introducing their wines to the circuit national. The opening gives such confidence that some have even asked us what we consider importing more suitable for this or that wine, according to their characteristics.

After natural settings, the result of changes in the English embassy, \u200b\u200bdynamic and purposeful atmosphere returns to the runway, with details that have managed to shore up the seriousness and professionalism of this type of event generated by the embassy. A great pleasure to be in charge Begani the rubric of public relations and media, as few figures as Beatriz García Nicolat have managed to channel the issues of food and English wines in the flow of information, whether printed or electronic.

has also been gratified by the presence of Jesus Ten winemaker as the developer who specializes in wines from Spain through the various tastings and presentations throughout the day.

The Wine Show V of Spain in Mexico included 48 warehouses, exposing more than 27 names of English origin, grape varieties such as Tempranillo, Garnacha, Syrah, Carignan, Verdejo and Godello, among others.

Unlike representing English Wine Day, with a stronger brand presence and warehouses already recognized in Mexico, this meeting is a real derroteos and adventure with many routes, as the same are present very cheap wines and unpretentious, that expressions like Priorat DO superb looking for a niche in the consumer segment of premium wines.

as indicated by the trade reports in Spain, the Mexican market has very positive prospects for increased per capita wine consumption compared to mature markets like Spain, Italy or France.

The per capita wine consumption in Mexico is estimated at about 550 ml, still very low compared with other countries such as Spain, France and Italy, with consumption estimated at about 25 to 50 liters per capita per year.

However, experts estimate that Mexico will experience an annual growth rate of consumption of 12% for the coming years. It is therefore an attractive market for English wine which already is the leader with a broad representation of the varieties and appellations of origin in Spain and positioned with an excellent brand image and quality for the Mexican consumer.

Spain, with about 1.16 million hectares for growing grapes , is the country with the largest area of \u200b\u200bvineyards in the European Union and the world. Represents third of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe EU and more than 15% of the world . It should be noted that Spain is the third leading producer of wine with a production of about 38 million bushels, second only to France and Italy.

As to the value of exports, Spain has become the second largest exporter of wine in the world, surpassed only by Italy.

In the Mexican market, Spain, ranks first in wine imports by value with sales of more than $ 18 million and a market share of 29% in the period January-June 2010 , and second in imports by volume with 4.1 million liters, representing an increase of 13% over the same period last year, behind Chile, which exported 7.1 million liters in the same period.

The reports confirm the recovery of the Mexican wine market, with preliminary data that put the imports of English wine in value more than $ 43 million for the period January-November 2010, with an import quota of 30 %. Spain ranks behind Chile, which exports $ 30 million to Mexico, with a share of 21%. Both countries experienced a 14% increase in the value of their imports over the same period in 2009.

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The kitchen is not for mediocre

Marcel Biró, one of the most successful chefs in the United States, has a slogan: Claiming the traditional European flavors. In his book Biró: European-Inspired Cuisine, published by Gibbs-Smith, shows this proposal.

"The center of my book is to demystify the classic European cuisine. Many were attracted to fast food and the recipes for 30 minutes, but there is a large kitchen area that appreciates tradition. But when preparing a dish is intimidating. That went into action with my recipes, Marcel explains in an interview.

definitely adds, I see a return to the old kitchen. It is something that is already happening in Europe, while in North America have fertile innovations of chefs such as Ferran Adria.

But Marcel is more than an apostle of traditions. It is an authority on consulting to restaurants and a figure in the media, through programs like The Kitchens of Biro, a PBS reality show foodservice.

"Half of the program is reality, and the other carries the traditional cooking segments. I stand before the camera up to 12 hours. I am in the camera because I want to portray what is really business.

"There are bad days and obviously we get stressed. But my work is based on respect for food artisans, who work with me and guests. I can be more relaxed cook. This gives balance to the program is anything but sensational. "

And if anyone doubts their entrepreneurial skills, talent is proof of his restaurant, opened in the last point you might think: Sheboygan, Wisconsin.

"I liked the challenge of opening it in a community that had never heard of a kitchen like mine. If you can survive here, you survive anywhere.

"is only two hours from Chicago. Biró, which opened in December 2002, is a fine European restaurant and wine bar. In July 2004 we opened Ó, Biró company's casual. "

"There is a resettlement of casual cuisine. Gone are the days of high French restaurants. Diners want to relax and enjoy a comfortable meal, "he reflects.

Behind the curtain Marcel's case is unique. Born and raised in socialism in the former East Germany.
"My roots left mark. I experienced the challenge of creating unique dishes with limited products, and tools of my own making. We worked with what we produced, it marked my appreciation for seasonal cuisine.

"I learned to experiment, but also to respect and preserve as a precious food. The ability to work with food is a privilege that should not be taken lightly. "

Born in 1973, started cooking at age six in his father's business. He entered the school at 15 and 21 was as Chef Instructor. Taught during the day while at night was in the kitchen.

At 24 years was one of the youngest European history titles such as Master Chef de Cuisine. Worked in Germany, France, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, Austria, Hungary, Lichtenstein, and now in U.S. with chefs such as Emile Jung, three-star Michelin Au Crocodile.

"I had many teachers. I took something from everyone and I developed my style. My influences have been François Geiger and Wolfgang Wolfgang Runge and Masser. Jung also learned a lot, but my main mentor was my grandmother, "says the former chef of German Chancellor Helmut Kohl.


Teamwork Biró says that the most successful chefs are businessmen first, and then cooks.

"It's sad, but it is the nature of the business. Success involves TV shows, books, many restaurants and more businesses alternates. Fame and fortune go hand in hand with being out of the kitchen. "

Teamwork is essential, he adds. Took six months to record the first 26 episodes of the program. At that time I opened a new restaurant and wrote a book, in addition to attending my first restaurant, school and consulting firm.

"I'm not afraid to hire great chefs. You are good when you have a good team. It is important to prioritize. I know my strengths and if a project does not go to my profile let him aside, "stresses.
In the case of the restaurant, highlighted his hope that the guests think that was the best meal of their lives, even if you have visited before.

"This is not a business for poor, everything must be perfect. I always say that the team loves what he does. It is the feeling that the guests must arrive before trying my food. " Love

good
Regarding his relationship with his wife and partner, Shannon Kring Biró, Marcel says: "We are married to our work, which is the only way for us to be united.

"Anyone who tries to keep a marriage to a restaurant business knows it is not easy. We are lucky, our skills are complementary. His experience in marketing and media is ideal for what I do. She does her part and respects my experience in the kitchen. Have equal responsibility for the success, as well as everything that comes ahead, "he says.

Biró rules chef
basic considerations for the success of a restaurant
• The location is very important. Many times I have been of the idea of \u200b\u200bsettling fantastic places because they are in the wrong place.

• Patience. A good PR team can make an impact and succeed from the start. Sometimes, however, is slow, and need not despair.

• Training. We give each employee a handbook of procedures and a menu guide whenever there is change in demand, ie, four times a year. A new element in training a month passes before reaching the hall, and is essential to have memorized all the information.

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About the dead, the crowns

few days ago, the Pan American School of Hospitality, Tourism and Gastronomy (CONPEHT), convened an academic meeting for the purpose of weighing and recognition from the podium of the university, the effort to achieve the recognition of Mexican cuisine and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

The event, held in the auditorium of the Universidad Panamericana, gave quoted some of the most active researchers in the culinary as well as officials of educational institutions that have worked hard in the definition of research and studies that provide major theoretical and documentation on the phenomenon of Mexican cuisine as the expression of intense cultural plurality.

However, few wanted to understand the conduct of this meeting as an appointment or simply speculative free accolades. Indeed, the work of the Conservatory led by Dr. López Morales has been invaluable and essential in this necessary step has given our food. The work of people like Jose Iturriaga, Sol Rubin de la Borbolla and Cristina Palacio, among others, is part of a structure of talent and vision that has managed to position our kitchen, at least in terms of concepts on land and illustrations in an international niche of unquestionable value. However, the time to paint this event we have been celebrating with a special taste to become a true laboratory of ideas, actions, facts and support for traditional cuisine and for the Mexican countryside.

The invitation to the event announcing the presence of the federal head of Tourism, Gloria Guevara. It sounded very nice, but as usual In these cases, the agendas of the officials make other priorities, and in the case of Secretary Guevara was no exception, leading to the presence of lower-level bureaucrats, no doubt with good intentions, but with a lower profile that requires the subject as a tourism product of great importance and priority in the national economy.

Either way the meeting was not lost its essence conciliatory and broadcast channel. CONPEHT made clear through the presentation of Antonio Montecinos, the important structure that have been developed for the study of gastronomy as a scientific product, social and tourism, twinned with various economic factors, emphasis in the area of \u200b\u200bsustainability. According to what we saw in the paper by Montecinos, the Confederation yields data, reflections and case studies that allow to build a major project to define the cuisine as a way to economic recovery in various entities, relying above all on those concepts of social and historical identity that weights the Conservatory as part of the record winner.

conclusions Establishment of the interest of Tourism Ministry to define the Department of Food as a national priority, the development of delicacies such as roads, the urgency to differentiate the offer Tourism in Mexico through its cuisine and the importance of creating a union of all sectors to create a national plan, are points that do not impress all who have been involved in this rescue plan and safeguards already several years.

linings Yet protocol and well-mannered academic, this first official approach leaves many gaps. The need for this matter of food, his rescue and presidential levels scope safeguards as a request is ever more insistent and necessary, and not because a presidential decree to magically change the quasi-marginal condition can mean that job yet, despite all the accolades of UNESCO, similar and related. The reality is that Mexico and its authorities are not seeing even with the necessary clarity the relevance of Mexican cuisine, and everything around it as a culture, society and economy, represent the future of the country.

"About the dead, the crown!", Said Miguel Torruco, CONPEHT president during his speech in the context of experts on the subject, referring to the flight of so many promises, pronouncements and warnings the expectation is already ongoing actions of evident realities. The only problem general action plans presented so far is the lack of real time execution, executing specific start times, evaluation and conclusion.

Is it possible that the food can finally reach the level of priority that should be on the national agenda?